As the dust of Watches and Wonders 2024 settles, it’s time for our inaugural Sunday Morning Showdown, spotlighting one of this year’s fair novelties. And what better way to kick off than with a classic Rolex versus Tudor duel? While Rolex’s new releases left some underwhelmed, Tudor pleasantly surprised with its novelties. So, let’s pit the newly unveiled black-dial Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer against its illustrious sibling, the replica Rolex Submariner 124060, and see which reigns supreme!
Watches and Wonders 2024 may still technically be open, but after a week brimming with unveilings, let’s reflect on the highlights. Among the most anticipated launches each year are those from Rolex and Tudor. However, this year, opinions were divided. Many deemed Rolex’s introductions lackluster, while Tudor won over enthusiasts with three compelling releases that resonated with what aficionados desire. While the Black Bay GMT stole the limelight, the METAS-certified Black Bay in black wasn’t far behind. With its revamped movement, sleeker profile, and departure from gilt-tone accents, it mirrors the essence of a Rolex Submariner like never before. Hence, it’s time to pit these contenders against each other to determine the champion.
Recap of Last Week’s Showdown
In our last clash, Daan and Thomas sparred over the clone Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique. While both lightweight titanium sports watches held their ground, the Yacht-Master 42 emerged victorious with 58% of the votes, besting the Fifty Fathoms’ 42%. Amidst consensus in the comments on their hefty price tags, admiration for Rolex’s clean design prevailed, while Blancpain’s future with the Fifty Fathoms raised some doubts. This sentiment reflected in the results, solidifying the Yacht-Master’s triumph. Now, onto this week’s showdown, with Jorg championing the Black Bay and Mike advocating for the Submariner. Let the battle commence!
Jorg: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer
Tudor managed to pull off a surprise this year. While a new iteration of the METAS-certified Black Bay was expected, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 GMT was a delightful twist. As a fervent admirer and prospective owner of the Tudor Black Bay Pro, the latest addition to the BB58 lineup has made me reconsider my choice. The proportions and size of Tudor’s new GMT are far more appealing than the hefty profile of the Black Bay Pro. However, I’ve struggled with the vintage-inspired gilt-style details that often adorn the Black Bay line. These retro touches sometimes feel excessive, echoing my primary gripe with last year’s Black Bay Burgundy.
It’s almost as if Tudor heeded the shared sentiments regarding this issue, delivering a fresh iteration of the Black Bay devoid of any artificial aging effects. The outcome? A watch exuding cleanliness, boasting an updated, slimmer case housing an impressive movement. Priced at roughly €4.5K, the new Master Chronometer version of the Black Bay, coupled with its refined aesthetics, is poised to capture the hearts of numerous watch aficionados. Positioned as an alternative to the Rolex Submariner at half the price, it represents Tudor’s closest venture yet into crafting a contemporary rendition of its iconic Submariner.
The allure of the new Black Bay is undeniable. While it doesn’t supplant my cherished Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, which holds a special place in my collection, I find it hard to justify the €9,500 retail price of the current Submariner ref. 124060, let alone the premium for immediate acquisition. Though I hold the current Sub in high regard, acknowledging its superiority over the new Black Bay objectively, for individuals like myself unwilling to splurge nearly 10 grand on a Sub, the Black Bay emerges as an exquisite alternative.
Moreover, it seamlessly integrates with Tudor’s lineage of Submariners, standing as a testament to the brand’s legacy. Interestingly, vintage Tudor Subs have surged in desirability in recent years, commanding prices on par with their Rolex counterparts. Despite commanding higher prices, most classic Tudor Subs pale in comparison to this new Black Bay in terms of craftsmanship and quality, making it a compelling choice.
So, what sets the new Black Bay apart? It’s the amalgamation of its elements. Eschewing vintage-inspired details results in a sleek, contemporary aesthetic that captivates at first glance. Only upon closer inspection do subtle nods to heritage reveal themselves. From the aluminum bezel insert to the Oyster-style bracelet, adorned with faux rivets for enthusiasts inclined towards that aesthetic, the Black Bay strikes a delicate balance, transforming into a modern dive watch with understated vintage nuances rather than a modern interpretation of vintage Tudor.
Crafted from stainless steel, the 41mm case, measuring 13.6mm in thickness and 50mm in length, with a lug spacing of 21mm and a 200m water resistance, epitomizes refined proportions. The updated case design, introduced in 2023, harmonizes the overall silhouette, elevating its visual appeal. Beyond aesthetics, the Black Bay exudes exceptional wearability, a trait I appreciated while experiencing the Black Bay Burgundy last year. Noteworthy craftsmanship, exemplified by the enhanced bezel featuring more pronounced knurling, underscores its practicality and visual allure.
The heartbeat of the Black Bay lies in its movement, the Kenissi-manufactured caliber MT5602-U, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. Developed in collaboration with Kenissi in Le Locle, this automatic caliber operates at 28,800vph, boasting 25 jewels and offering an impressive 70 hours of power reserve. Antimagnetic up to 15,000 gauss and accurate to 0/+5 seconds per day, it incorporates a silicon hairspring, variable-inertia balance, and transversal balance bridge. Backed by METAS certification, it represents the pinnacle of horological prowess at its price point.
In conclusion, the new black rendition of the Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer emerges triumphant, not just in today’s faceoff but also within the competitive landscape of horology. Priced at €4,510 on the Oyster-style bracelet or €4,620 with the Jubilee look, it’s a compelling choice. Personally, I lean towards the former bracelet, as it complements the overall aesthetic seamlessly. Ultimately, it’s about finding solace in a watch you cherish. For the first time, I find myself favoring the current Black Bay over its Submariner counterpart. Tudor has nullified my reasons for coveting the current Submariner, making the Black Bay Master Chronometer an unequivocal choice.
Mike: Rolex Submariner ref. 124060
Credit where it’s due, Tudor has surprised us all. I never anticipated the brand to unveil a plain variant of the Black Bay devoid of fauxtina. Yet, here we are in 2024, witnessing Tudor heed the calls for a bona fide, affordable Submariner alternative. However, let’s pause for a moment. Tudor executed a subtle maneuver, adhering to its family’s tradition of almost delivering precisely what we desired. You see, the new Tudor Black Bay is substantial. While it will undoubtedly perform admirably, had it arrived as a Black Bay 58, it might have clinched victory from the get-go.
The Sub’s Superior Proportions
The Rolex Submariner 124060, often misconstrued as the “No Date Sub,” remains the quintessential dive watch. Yes, even after Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub maintains its supremacy. Despite sharing the same 41mm diameter as its more affordable counterpart, it boasts a more wrist-friendly profile. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.6mm, compared to the Black Bay’s expansive 50mm span, the Submariner offers a more refined fit. While the lug spacing remains at 21mm (admittedly not ideal), the Black Bay widens it to 22mm. Furthermore, with a thickness of 13mm, as opposed to the Black Bay’s 13.6mm, the Submariner exudes elegance, catering to a broader range of wrists.
Exemplary Craftsmanship and Movement
The Submariner 124060 epitomizes fake Rolex’s renowned craftsmanship, featuring a 904L stainless steel case and bracelet complemented by a ceramic bezel and an exemplary Glidelock clasp. Its dial, illuminated by Chromalight, Rolex’s proprietary luminous material, emits a striking blue glow in darkness. Housing the Rolex 3235 movement, a true in-house caliber, the Submariner boasts a power reserve of 70 hours and integrates Rolex’s innovative Chronergy escapement. Certified as a chronometer by COSC, Rolex subjects the movement to its Superlative Chronometer tests, ensuring an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day.
The Inimitable Rolex Submariner
It’s understandable to harbor frustration towards the waiting lists for the Rolex Submariner. I share the sentiment and find it even more exasperating amidst the current softer state of the watch market. Nonetheless, there’s only one Rolex Submariner. While the Tudor Black Bay may appeal to some, many regard Tudor as a budget-friendly alternative. This often leads to disillusionment and an eventual longing for the genuine article. Granted, the Submariner commands a lofty price tag of €9,500, but even at that premium, it reigns supreme as the ultimate dive watch pound-for-pound. Rolex’s unparalleled build quality, timeless aesthetics, and inherent value make it unparalleled. Tudor has put up a valiant effort, but if money were no object, the Submariner would emerge victorious time and again.