I’ve never been particularly fond of modern Rolex models, except for the Explorer II Reference 216570. What caught my attention was how closely it resembled the vintage 1655 “Freccione,” with its bold orange second time zone hand – a true collector’s gem.
During a trip to Tokyo a few years ago, I met with a distinguished Japanese businessman. Dressed impeccably in a tailored suit and wearing stunning Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes, he had a modern Explorer II peeking beneath his French cuffs. His polished appearance, along with that Rolex, made a lasting impression on me. As soon as our meeting ended, I was on the hunt for a Rolex dealer.
Despite my admiration for the watch, I’ve always been hesitant about buying modern Rolexes – mainly because of the hefty price tag. Being a bit of a bargain hunter, I didn’t want to pay full price. Fortunately, luck was on my side. Just around the corner from where I was, I stumbled upon a second-hand store with an Explorer II in stock.
After putting my negotiation skills to work and securing an impressive “zero-percent” discount, I walked out with the Reference 216570, complete with box and papers.
As a watch enthusiast, I usually let new watches sit untouched for a few days to build anticipation. When the day finally came to wear my new Rolex, I eagerly took it out, read through the manual (struggling a bit to figure out how to set the orange hand), and proudly strapped it to my wrist.
I wore it frequently that summer, hoping we’d develop a connection. I wanted to love it – maybe it just needed time. But, in the end, it wasn’t meant to be. I realized that, despite its charm, it wasn’t the perfect fit for me.
Around this time, I began exploring online platforms that offered custom coatings and dial modifications. Maybe, I thought, if I tweaked the Explorer II, it would win me over.
I mentioned my idea to my friend Chris, a serious collector who always thinks carefully about his watch choices. He’s often left bewildered by my occasional watch projects, but this time his response was surprisingly supportive: “I don’t see the Explorer II as iconic as a Submariner or a Daytona, so why not go for it?”
Yes, I admit it – I tend to seek validation for my projects. But that’s another story. With Chris’ approval, I dove into the idea of modifying my Rolex.
I contacted several companies for quotes, and each one seemed to be more expensive than the last. The costs were so high that I was almost ready to abandon the idea. But I was determined not to give up on my Explorer II without a fight.
Once again, my guardian angel intervened. A fellow collector recommended a discreet watch shop in Switzerland (names and places altered to protect the innocent) that could provide the custom work I needed. After a few emails and some back-and-forth, I sent my replica watch off for a full makeover, a process that would take two months.
The changes were minimal but impactful. I wanted a black case and bracelet, with lime green enamel numerals on the bezel. I kept the dial and hands untouched, wanting the watch to retain its Rolex identity. I wasn’t looking for a full vintage overhaul (I find the idea of modifying modern Daytonas to look like vintage models – often at a price higher than that of an actual vintage piece – completely ridiculous).
As for the green numerals, they weren’t a shout-out to Shrek; I just love the color. It’s rare in watchmaking, and I felt it would give my Explorer II a unique touch. The enameling artist sent me a few options, including one with orange numerals, but I ultimately chose a bold lime green.
Two months later, a package arrived. I opened it eagerly and was greeted by my newly pimped-out Explorer II, with its dark, menacing case and vibrant green accents. The transformation exceeded my expectations. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the watchmaker had shipped it to me before I’d even paid – now that’s trust.
While I can’t say I’ve fallen in love with it, this experience proved that modern Rolexes, even when customised, just aren’t my thing. Still, I wear it with pride. It’s a conversation starter and undeniably a head-turner – plus, it’s a damn good-looking, tough-as-nails watch.